Jaipur

 Another early start, another curry themed breakfast.

Today's first stop was the Amber Fort, (UNESCO HERITAGE SITE) built in 1592 by Raja Man Singh I. 

Situated on top of a hill, we had two options to reach it: walk up or face the ordeal of riding an elephant.  Given that we've ridden on an elephant in Thailand and thus being wise to the wayward nature of the giant beasts, we chose to walk.

A prime example of the havoc caused by the pungent pachyderms

The fort itself is huge, but there again Raja Man Singh apparently had no fewer than 12 wives, so I guess he needed the space to keep them all separate and so avoid confusion.

 

It's equally lovely inside too. (Obviously design input from the wives I feel).

Despite how lovely it all is, I wouldn't fancy being one of the chosen twelve, although I suppose it would there'd be more women  to help with the housework etc.......

We picked our way back through the elephant effluent and assorted and extremely persistent street sellers to the relative safety of the coach.

A swift lunch stop and we were off again. Next stop: The City Palace (yes, I know we've already visited the City Palace, but this is a different city and a different palace. You'll just have to trust me on this)

This one was built between 1729 -1732. It was used as an administrative centre as well as a royal residence and in fact the current Maharaja of Jaipur still lives here with his family, although we didn't see him . (To be fair, I don't actually know what he looks like, so it's possible that he passed by unnoticed)

Next door to the palace is Jantar Mantar, one of five astronomical observatories in Northern India, built between 1724 - 1730. As an added bonus, it's a UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE. 

Among the instruments on display is the world's largest sundial. It's around 90ft tall and tells local solar time with an accuracy of 2 seconds. (Sadly its immense bulk means it's no use as a wristwatch)

There were lots of other astronomical bits and pieces lying around, most of which appeared to have some part to play in forecasting  horoscopes. 

Now, I don't know about you blogmates, but I've never placed astrology in the scientific sphere.

JB intends to get to the bottom of it and has bought a book to help him. 

We await his verdict.

On the road yet again

 Adopting the pleasure/pain principle, we feared that yesterday's fairly relaxed multiple sightseeing would exact a heavy price.

None of us were prepared for the 06.45 start this morning however.  (I have a feeling that some of our party may never fully recover)

Once securely fastened in the coach, our guide revealed that it would take us between 6 and 7 hours drive to reach Jaipur (Actually it was closer to 10 hours once we'd made the very necessary toilet and lunch stops)

 The giddiness of yesterday's boat trip was fading fast.

On arriving in Jaipur, the pink (in places) city, we wasted no time in boarding bicycle rickshaws for a quick tour of the place. (The rickshaws were actually powered by electric motorbikes and after our experience in Hanoi, when our bicycle rickshaw pedaller was left a broken man, it was perhaps for the best)

The ride proved to be even more terrifying than the tuk-tuks earlier in the week. Still, we got to see something of the city. And now you can too....

Udaipur

 So this morning, bright and early, we got our first proper look at Udaipur (to be honest, some of us were none too bright and it was most definitely too early).

Udaipur is noisy, chaotic and full of Indian tourist groups making the most of the public holiday for Gandhi's birthday. We loved it.

Our first stop this morning was to Jagdish temple. Dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu it's been in continuous use since 1651.  Unlike the brightly coloured Hindu temples we've seen in the South of Asia, it's made from white marble (although it wasn't exactly gleaming) and is covered in most excellent carvings. It certainly showed those Jain lads how it should be done. Plus you're free to enjoy the odd plate of garlic chicken and a beer if you're Hindu.....

After a fairly steep uphill trek dodging all manner of crazed drivers and holidaying locals, we reached our next objective : The City Palace.

Built on the shore of Lake Pichola , at over 800ft long it's the largest palace complex in Rajasthan. Building was started in 1559 by Maharana Udai Singh II, and each Maharana since has added a bit more to it.

Indian security guard bravely looking the other way.

Palaced out, we headed down to the lake for a relaxing boat ride stopping off at the Maharana's summer palace for a 15 minute photo break followed by an hour's midday -sun queueing and competetive glaring with the Indian tourists in the neighbouring queue while we waited for a boat back. Such fun!

After lunch we ended the day's excursions with a visit to The Garden of the Maidens. Built in the 18th century it was intended as a place for the Queen and her ladies-in-waiting to get away from it all for a few hours.  Lots of fountains and palm trees. I liked it, despite not being royal and if I'm honest, it's been a good few years since I was a maiden.

Ranakpur temple

 This morning we were granted a reprieve from the usual brutal 8am starts, instead only setting off at a frankly tardy 9.15.

It soon became apparent however that the late start was not without cost.

Our target for today was the city of Udaipur  (some 260km or 6 hours drive away), but what with the frequent toilet stops (most bladders on board are over 65) , lunch break and visit to Ranakpur temple, it was nearer to 10 hours before we finally arrived. We're here now, but as it's dark, I can't tell you what it's like.

Anyway, Ranakpur Jain temple. Built in the 15th century, it's famous for its marble pillars. All 1444 of them each one different, although I cannot verify this, having lost interest after the third one. It's made from white marble and the overall effect is like an extravagantly decorated wedding cake. Without the marzipan. Or fruitcake, come to that.

'But what about those Jains?' you ask. Well, as far as I can make out (and it's worth remembering here that I only scraped a grade C in RE) it's a religion based on spiritual purity and non-violence. Strictly vegetarian and avoiding leather, alcohol, garlic and onions it doesn't sound terribly tempting. How they'd manage in Benidorm is beyond me.

In other news, today is a national holiday in India as it's Gandhi's birthday. The government has decided that the best way to celebrate it is by having a country-wide alcohol ban for the day. The Jains will be pleased. Although I'm not sure they're allowed pleasure.

Jodhpur (the place, not the keks)

 Yesterday, we headed out for Jodhpur, a short hop of 5 hours.

Perhaps sensing the faint stirring of mutiny over the long journeys, our guide surprised us with a bonus stop midway.

And what a treat it was blogmates.  We had stopped outside one of the largest cow hospitals in the region (seemingly it's called a gowsala).

Yes indeed, you read that correctly. Our bonus treat was a visit to a sanctuary for old and /or poorly cows . Witness exhibit A:

Who could fail to be moved by this image?

Or this one?

A thorough search of the premises revealed no evidence of pie or sausage manufacture, so I guess it's legit.....

Then it was back on the coach, several of our party visibly moved by the things they'd seen.(indeed the 3 legged cow hopping pluckily along will stay with me for a long time)

On reaching Jodhpur, it was straight on to more sightseeing. Another fort was waiting to be photographed.

This one, Merangah Fort is actually spectacular. 

From the outside it bears a strong resemblance to Carcassonne.  (Regular readers may remember our visit there last year)

Inside however, it's a different tale. Every possible surface has been decorated with intricately carved stone. Think of a crazed stonemason let loose with a chisel.

Remarkable. 

There's a throne room and various treasures to ogle at as well. Here's a few of them.....

After an action packed day like this, all thoughts turned to our hotel and perhaps a reviving beverage. Or two.

But our trusty guide had other plans. Pushing aside our requests to check in, unpack and hit the bar, he directed us instead toward a fleet of no fewer than 17 tuk-tuks which were to take us into the old town.

We set off into the rush hour traffic at a fair old pace, mostly on the wrong side of the road. 

Thr drivers jostled for position between themselves and indeed anyone or anything foolish enough to get in our way. Our tuk-tuk was rear-ended which was a first for both me and JB. 

* Incidentally, a couple of readers have been in touch expressing concern over yesterday's lack of curry at breakfast time.  I'm pleased to report that it was back on this morning. 

Carry on- Follow that camel

 Last night we stayed in a fully restored 'painted house' hotel. It was absolutely beautiful, which just goes to show what can be achieved with a bit of elbow grease and free rein with the Dulux colour chart.

Full marks then, for decor, but disappointed not to see curry on the breakfast menu.

Moving on, and after another 7 hours of tedium, we arrived in the town of Bikaner. We were here primarily to visit the fort (not UNESCO).

Built in the 16th century, it's famous for never having been conquered despite being built on flat ground rather than the more usual hilltop.

Inside, we were led past various pieces of aging weaponry (bizarrely there was a biplane in amongst the scimitars.......)

The fort has also served time as a palace and so we dutifully traipsed through a few bedrooms before it was back onto the coach.

By now, it was early evening and it was time for the main event of the day. An outdoor evening of cultural entertainment, and dining under the stars. 

Situated in a desert landscape, there unfortunately seemed only one way to arrive:

Camel-cart.

For those readers unfamiliar with this particular mode of transport, allow me to explain. It's a cart. Pulled by a camel.

Yes. Exactly like this. In fact, this is our cart and highly qualified driver. 

Let me tell you blog-mates, this is not a vehicle built for comfort. My ribs took a right old bashing I can tell you. Not to mention my rear end. 

The entertainment began with a recital featuring that most feared of instruments, the bagpipes, and I began to realise exactly why the fort down the road had never been conquered. 

The music continued during our al fresco meal, along with a dancer who whirled around most impressively before her grand finale involving what appeared to be a fully lit candelabra on her head.

All in all, a remarkable cultural evening.